During Paris Fashion Week at Palais de Tokyo, Ester Manas showcased its latest collection, emphasizing its commitment to size inclusivity with a striking inflatable elephant as the show’s centerpiece.
Since launching in 2019, the brand, created by couple Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, has gained recognition for its innovative adjustable couture techniques, catering to sizes ranging from XS to 3XL.
However, the designers have expressed growing concerns about a decline in support for size inclusivity. “As a big person,” Manas remarked, “I’ve noticed that ‘bienveillance’ (benevolence) has shifted… everyday fatphobia seems to be creeping back in.”
In the lead-up to the show, they struggled to find size-inclusive models due to limited casting options, highlighting that they are now one of the few brands offering such opportunities.
The duo also criticized the industry’s focus on “normal” models, which implies a preference for those with a lower BMI, and condemned unhealthy behaviors that are normalized in French culture.
After the show, the designers reflected on the surprising trend of celebrities—who had previously embraced their body types—rapidly losing weight, coining the term “being Ozempicked” in reference to the rising popularity of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic and Wegovy.
Goldman Sachs predicts these drugs could be used by up to 70 million people worldwide by 2028.
This return to a “skinny ideal” is evident, with reports indicating that the representation of mid and plus-size models at shows has dropped by 24% compared to the previous season. A 2023 Vogue Business report revealed that a staggering 95.6% of looks at the Fall-Winter 2023 shows were in sizes US 0-4.
In response to these challenges, Ester Manas has found it increasingly difficult to sell designs in the wholesale market, prompting a shift towards direct sales and a ‘See Now, Buy Now’ model, allowing customers to pre-order items as soon as they appear on the runway.
The designers are disappointed that size inclusivity is being treated as a passing trend rather than a lasting movement for body acceptance. Publicist Giulietta Canzani Mora highlighted that while the industry seemed to embrace inclusivity, the focus may have been more about trends than genuine change.
Amid concerns for the future of size inclusivity in fashion, the Ester Manas team questions where models and activists, who gained visibility through recent cultural shifts, will go next.
Stylist Guillaume Boulez remains hopeful, asserting that Ester Manas clothes stand out regardless of size and aim to empower women. “We hope to bring them confidence and the choice to be visible and free,” Delepierre added, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to making every woman feel valued and stylish.